Dr Jane Tynan
Social history of fashion and clothing; gender and popular culture; history of uniform clothing: military and civilian; fashion and social identity; conflict and visual/material culture; art and design modernism; politics of design; gender and design; the body and war memory.
My research primarily concerns the history and politics of design.
At the moment my work on military uniform explores embodied aspects of war and conflict. I have recently published on the military uniforms worn by the British army in the First World War: in particular the adoption of khaki as camouflage device, the experiences of conscientious objectors who resisted uniform and the role of the tailoring trade in wartime army clothing production. I am currently completing a book about the khaki service dress worn by British combatants on the western front; it considers how uniform embodied social class and ethnicity, the modes of its production and consumption, and its incorporation into the iconography of war remembrance. I have also published on the popular fascination with military themes in contemporary fashion design and media.
In the future I would like to explore the material culture and improvised uniforms created for guerilla warfare and insurgency. Social theory is another area of research interest, and I am contributing an essay to a forthcoming anthology Thinking through Fashion that considers the significance of Michel Foucault’s thought to the analysis of fashion as image, practice and discourse.
2013: Khaki: British army uniform and the making of the First World War civilian soldier (Palgrave Macmillan, forthcoming).
- 2013: ‘Making and Remaking the Civilian Soldier: The World War I Photographs of Horace Nicholls’ co-authored with Suzannah Biernoff, Journal of War and Culture Studies, special issue: Men at War, 5.3, pp. 277-293 (in press).
- 2011: ‘Military Dress and Men’s Outdoor Leisurewear: Burberry’s Trench Coat in First World War Britain,’ in Journal of Design History, special issue on uniforms, (2011) vol. 24, issue 2, pp. 139-156.
- 2011: Book Review of Juliet Ash, ‘Dress Behind Bars: Prison Clothing as Criminality,’ London: IB Tauris, 2009, in Journal of Design History (2011) vol. 24, Issue 1, pp. 92-94.
- 2010: Exhibition Review of ‘War and the Body,’ in Media, War & Conflict (2010) vol. 3, no. 3, pp. 365-376.
- 2009: 'The Lure of Discipline: military aesthetics and the making of the First World War civilian soldier’ in Photography and Culture (2009) vol. 2, issue 2. pp.135-152.
- 2009: 'Creativity and Conflict: how theory and practice shapes student identities in design education’ in Arts and Humanities in Higher Education. Vol.8, no.3. pp. 295-308.
- 2011: ‘Knitting for Victory: military chic in fashion knitwear’ in Unravel: Knitwear in Fashion (Tielt: Lannoo Publishers, 2011) pp. 39- 45. Fashion Exhibition at ModeMuseum Provincie Antwerpen, MoMu, 2011, Belgium.
- 2008: 'Scoping the Enemy: military aesthetics and the artifice of war' in Blaise Smith Weapons, pp.48-50. Catalogue for art exhibition at Hunt Museum, Limerick (2008) and Kilkenny Arts Festival (2009), Ireland.
- 2012: “Quakers in Khaki:’ conscientious objectors’ resistance to uniform clothing in First World War Britain’ in Stephen Gibson and Simon Mollan (eds.) Representations of Peace and Conflict (Basingstoke: Palgrave Macmillan) pp. 86-102
- 2012: ‘Military Chic: fashioning civilian bodies for war’ in Kevin McSorley (ed.) War and the Body (London: Routledge) pp. 78-89
- 2011: ‘Regulating the Body in Army Manuals and Trade guides: the design of First World War khaki service dress’ in Grace Lees-Maffei (ed.) Writing Design: Words and Objects (Oxford: Berg) pp. 93-102.
- 2010: ‘Women in Fashion Design’ in O’ Connor, Karen (ed.) Gender and Women’s Leadership: A Reference Handbook (California: Sage). pp. 933-940.
- 2008: 'Tailoring in the Trenches: the making of First World War British army uniform' in Meyer, Jessica (ed.) British Popular Culture and the First World War (Leiden: Brill, 2008) pp.71-93.
Recent conference papers
- 2013: '"Legion of the excluded": the unmilitary appearance of the 1916 rebels', at Object Matters: Making 1916, Dublin, Ireland.
- 2011: ‘Conscientious objectors’ resistance to uniform clothing in First World War Britain’ at Design History Conference Design Activism and Social Change, Universitat de Barcelona, Spain.
- 2010: ‘Khaki: army clothing and architectures of surveillance’ at Ordnance: War, Architecture and Space, University College Cork, Ireland.
- 2010: ‘Khaki: fashioning civilian bodies for war’ at War and the Body, Imperial War Museum, London, UK.
- 2009: ‘‘Tailoring in the Trenches:’ Clothing the British army during the First World War’ at Men at War: Masculinities, Identities, Cultures Swansea University, Wales, UK.
- 2009: ‘The War Office, mass mobilisation and the design of First World War khaki service dress’ at the Design History Conference Writing Design: Object, Process, Discourse, Translation University of Hertfordshire, UK.
Ahmed Jameel, ‘Authorial roles in writing creator-owned comics,’ University of the Arts London, second supervisor with Dr. Roger Sabin, Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design.
Giulia Bonali, ‘Wearing the change: Fashion in Portugal after the April Revolution,’ Birkbeck-University of London, second supervisor with Dr. Luis Trindade, Department of Iberian and Latin American Studies.